Bad Heart Straw Church

In the aftermath of World War I, the Dominion government established the Soldiers Settlement Board, which was to serve two purposes.  First, it was a mechanism whereby the government could reward men who had physically defended their country in time of need; second, it could provide an outlet for an unemployment problem that was rapidly building up.  The Board identified tracts of land in arable districts which had not hitherto been taken up by homesteaders and proceeded to have portions of them set aside for the soldiers.  One region where considerable land was reserved was the Peace River Country, the central grasslands of which had been settled much earlier.  One of the districts of this region where soldiers were encouraged to come was a small stretch of parkland off the Bad Heart River, which flows through the Burnt Hills into the Smoky River.  Here, in TPs74 & 75 R2 W6, several veterans took advantage of the government’s offer and applied for land in 1919, including the highly decorated but soon to be notorious George Frederick “Nobby” Clark.

The war veterans were soon joined by other settlers, and, gradually, the community to be known as Bad Heart evolved.  A school district was incorporated in 1928 and a store and post office was built the following year.  Bad Heart was, however, somewhat cut off from the more heavily settled areas of the Grande Prairie, and conditions were far from ideal for farming.  A number of foreclosures occurred, but the community did hang together, as cattle, hogs and poultry were raised to offset the costs of dry land farming.  Being remote however, amenities were few, and it wasn’t until the late 1950’s that electrical power and telephone services were extended there.

Until the mid-1950’s, the Bad Heart district was without a church, with local residents attending Roman Catholic, Anglican and United Churches in the Teepee Creek district just to the southwest.  At the time, one of the most energetic Roman Catholic priests in the region was resident at Sexsmith, over 50km away.  This was the Redemptorist Father Francis Dales, who, as a trained architect, had just designed a new $70,000 church in Sexsmith.  He had also constructed, and would design and construct other public buildings, the work being either volunteer or undertaken by young teenagers at a small wage.  To complete his projects, Father Dales often salvaged lumber from demolished buildings.  Scrap metal from demolished vehicles and farm equipment was also recovered and sold.  Other fundraisers of varying kinds were also undertaken.

As his parish included Bad Heart, Father Dales decided, in the early 1950’s, that it was time for a church of the right persuasion to be built there.  For the district at this time, the major problem was financing, for all Roman Catholic churches relied strongly on local support, and the people of Bad Heart were hardly in a position to fund a new church structure, being relatively few in numbers and anything but wealthy.  Work bees and salvaged lumber would not be enough.  Father Dales, however, had learned that, in eastern Canada, certain farmers had built cattle sheds out of straw bales, the oil from the rye or flax serving as a preservative.  He therefore submitted a design to the Vicar Apostolic of the Archdiocese of Grouard, Bishop Henri Routhier, who approved the plan, and, apparently, personally advanced $500 towards its fulfillment.

In the summer of 1954, work began on the soon to be famous rye straw church at Bad Heart.  Before long, word spread of the unique venture, which was completed in about six weeks.  Eventually, even the Toronto Star Weekly did a story on the church and its builder.  All work, of course, was volunteer, while fixtures and furnishings were salvaged from other churches in the region.  The pews, for example, were taken from the old Roman Catholic church in Sexsmith.

In March 2009, the Bad Heart Straw Church was designated a Provincial Historic Resource.  Its significance lies foremost in its representation of the ability of people in remote rural areas of the province to find ways of adapting what they have into useful purposes.  The building is also important in being directly associated with Father Francis Dales, the ebullient architecture priest who designed and built many structures in the region and elsewhere, including several churches, St. Mary’s Roman Catholic School in Sexsmith, and the Anglican Speke Hall in Grande Prairie.

Written by: David Leonard, Historian

Visit the Alberta Register of Historic Places to learn more about the heritage value of the Bad Heart Straw Church. In order for a site to be designated a Provincial Historic Resource, it must possess province-wide significance. To properly assess the historic importance of a resource, a historian crafts a context document that situates a resource within its time and place and compares it to similar resources in other parts of the province. This allows staff to determine the importance of a resource to a particular theme, time, and place. Above, is some of the historical information used in the evaluation of the Bad Heart Straw Church.

Four New Projects Approved for MHPP Funding!

The Alberta Historical Resources Foundation, at its October meeting in Medicine Hat, approved grants for four communities to engage in heritage planning projects with the support of the Municipal Heritage Partnership Program (MHPP).

The City of St. Albert was approved for $20, 000 to undertake a heritage management plan. This builds upon the solid foundation laid by St. Albert with its Heritage Inventory project, completed a few years ago.

Strathcona County, following up from its Heritage Management plan, is now planning to identify its potentially significant historic places. The County was approved for an MHPP grant of $30, 000 to carry out this project.

Clearwater County, a new partner with MHPP, is undertaking a Heritage Inventory project to evaluate five places of interest in the Nordegg Townsite, and five additional resources in rural areas. Clearwater County was approved for an MHPP grant of $12, 500 for this work.

The Village of Holden, which, as a small community, has successfully completed a Heritage Survey and Inventory with the help of MHPP is now looking to create solid heritage policy and a management plan. MHPP is supporting the Village with a grant of $7, 500.

Congratulations to these four communities on partnering with MHPP! We look forward to working with you to help “create a future for Alberta’s Historic Places!”

Written by: Matthew Francis, Manager of Municipal Heritage Services

The Not So New Municipal Heritage Services Officer

A few days ago we introduced our newest colleague, Carlo Laforge. Doing so, our editor realized that many regular contributors to RETROactive were never introduced to our readers. So, without further ado, allow me to introduce … myself.

I started working for the Government of Alberta’s Historic Resources Management Branch in the spring of 2008. I was assigned to the Municipal Heritage Partnership Program and have been busily helping Alberta’s municipalities identify, protect and conserve locally significant historic resources. My work has given me the privilege of traveling all over Alberta to visit municipalities large and small, urban and rural. I’ve talked with municipal councils, facilitated workshops for council-appointed Heritage Advisory Bodies and discussed Municipal Historic Resources designation with municipal staff and property owners.

Back at the office, I have managed the Municipal Heritage Partnership Program’s grant agreements with municipalities. I am also responsible for processing nominations to list Municipal Historic Resources on the Alberta Register of Historic Places. I also prepare training material for municipal staffers on how to evaluate and protect historic resources (like the Managing Historic Places Designation Guide).

Before returning home to Alberta, I worked at the Government of Saskatchewan’s Heritage Conservation Branch for four years. I conducted historical research in support of the Provincial Heritage Property designation program. I also wrote several Statements of Significance for Municipal Heritage Properties listed on the Saskatchewan Register of Heritage Property and the Canadian Register of Historic Places.

I hold a Bachelor of Arts degree with a combined major of English and History from the University of Calgary and a Master of Arts degree (history) from the University of Saskatchewan. In my spare time … I have hobbies.

If I haven’t met you in person yet, I look forward to doing so.

Michael Thome

It’s bad to clad!

Property owners occasionally ask whether historic wood windows and trim can be clad in sheet metal to both eliminate maintenance and protect fragile historic material. As conservation advisers, we discourage cladding since it removes, in effect, a character-defining element from the building, and cladding raises maintenance issues of its own.

Tempting though it may be, simply covering up deteriorated areas can ignore the causes of deterioration, leaving underlying moisture or other problems to continue their destructive work within the structure.

Wood sills, as an example, may be weathered rather than actually rotted and can often be treated relatively easily and economically with wood epoxy repairs. Once repaired, the repainted wood is stable, rot-resistant and easily maintained.

Sheet metal cladding, on the other hand, takes skill to properly detail, fit, and install so that it drains properly. Once installed, claddings often rely on caulking to seal open edges. Caulking can attract dirt and, like the painted surfaces it conceals, needs to be maintained and periodically replaced. Perhaps most important, clad wood is no longer exposed to the drying effects of the sun and circulating air, so that if water does gets beneath the cladding, as it likely eventually will, deterioration can occur rapidly and unnoticed. Better the devil you know…

This isn’t to say cladding is always inappropriate: it may be a valid means of adding a weather detail missing in the historic element while minimizing impacts on heritage value. In general, though, it’s preferable to have an authentic original material that you can appreciate and easily maintain.

Written by: Fraser Shaw, Heritage Conservation Adviser.

Thar’s Hair on Them Thar Hills!

Origin of the name of the Hamlet of Hairy Hill

Recently the Edmonton Journal ran a photo essay and article about the Hamlet of Hairy Hill, which included the story about the origin of the name (see the Further Reading section below for links).  Hairy Hill is undoubtedly one of the most unusual place names in Alberta. It is a name that frequently raises questions, not to mention more than a few eyebrows.

The region around what is now Hairy Hill has been historically known as both the Whitford District and the Soda Lake District.  In November 1903, a post office by the name of Soda Lake was established with A. E. Boutellier as the first postmaster. The post office name was in reference to a highly alkaline lake located nearby (which has since dried up). However, in February 1907, a new post office was opened closer to the lake. Probably in recognition of geographical realities and to avoid confusion, the new post office was given the name Soda Lake, meaning the older post office needed a new name. (Click on the above image for a larger view.)

The new name chosen for the post office was inspired by a strange phenomenon the region’s early settlers had observed. In the 1940s, folklorists recorded this story told by George Chrapka, an early resident of the area:

The first settlers, on moving into this district … chose the site for their new homes on a large flat hill.  This hill, however, was somewhat different from any other they had seen.  Everywhere they looked they saw large mats of hair covering the ground.  Naturally they were puzzled, but with the coming of the spring also came an answer.  One bright morning they saw a hundred or more buffalo roaming lazily along the slopes of the hill.  On going to the spot they found fresh mats of hair.  This solved the “hairy mystery,” and also suggested a name for the locality – Hairy Hill.

Many mammals grow a shaggy coat during the winter, which they shed in the spring. North American bison, commonly referred to as buffalo, are known to rub themselves on the ground and against foliage to rid themselves of their winter coats.  Jack Brink, a former archaeologist with the Alberta Archeological Survey and now a curator at the Royal Alberta Museum, has commented:

Bison, or buffalo as they are commonly known, have lived in central Alberta for thousands of years. The area around Hairy Hill would have been an especially attractive region because it straddles the boundary of two eco-zones: the plains to the south and the parkland and forest to the north. As such it offers access to and advantages of both regions. Hilly areas offered lush grass, greater moisture and some protection from extremes of weather. So it is reasonable to suggest that Hairy Hill was a popular spot for bison herds. This could account for the historic records of great amounts of buffalo hair found on the hill by early settlers.

Year after year, while there was still bison roaming the plains, they would return each spring to this hill, leaving new deposits of hair over its surface. The settlers called the place Hairy Hill. The unusual name stuck, gained a following and in 1907, the regional post office was given the name Hairy Hill.

As the writer of the Edmonton Journal article points out, Hairy Hill’s history is a common one for many of Alberta’s rural communities – a promising and optimistic start followed by disappointment and decline.  The population of Hairy Hill grew, slowly but steadily, over the first few decades.  In 1928, the Canadain Pacific Railway built an east-west line through the community. Soon after the completion of the rail line, Hairy Hill boasted a large school, numerous stores, and up to six grain elevators.  By 1946 the population had reached 235 and the community was erected as a village.  The population continued to grow, reaching a high of 250 in 1948 before beginning a steady decline, falling to 136 by the late-1960s.  The population dropped precipitously through the 1970s and 1980s, reaching a low of 54 people by 1993.  In 1996, the village was dissolved and Hairy Hill became a hamlet under the jurisdiction of the County of Two Hills No. 21.

Written by: Ron Kelland, Historic Places Research Officer and Geographic Names Program Coordinator

Location:

National Topographic System Map Sheet: 73 E/13 – Hairy Hill

Latitude/Longitude: 53° 45′ 48″ N & 111° 58′ 43″ W

Alberta Township System: Sec 23 Twp 55 Rge 14 W4

Description: Approximately 18 km northwest of the Town of Two Hills and 11 km southeast of the Village of Willingdon. 

Additional Resources: 

More information about Hairy Hill can be found in:

Chrapka, George. “How Hairy Hill got its Name,” Alberta Folklore Quarterly, Vol. 2 no. 1 (March 1946), p. 34, available from the Alberta Folklore and Local History Collection, University of Alberta Libraries http://www.ourfutureourpast.ca/folklore.html.

Lucas, John. “Gallery: Hairy Hill,” Edmonton Journal, 29 October 2011, Available from http://www.edmontonjournal.com/news/photos/Gallery+Hairy+Hill/5628500/story.html.  

Mah, Bill. “Hamlet of Hairy Hill Fading Slowly Into Alberta’s Past,” Edmonton Journal, 30 October 2011, Available from http://www.edmontonjournal.com/news/Hamlet+Hairy+Hill+fading+slowly+into+Alberta+past/5630654/story.html.   

What’s New with the Alberta Heritage Survey? (11.01)

Special Exhibit: Photographic Memory

The Alberta Heritage Survey is a collection of data and photographs documenting over 100,000 historic resources across the province. The database is still growing, and is accessible online via HeRMIS, the Heritage Resources Management Information System: Heritage Survey on HeRMIS. Perhaps the most compelling aspect of the Heritage Survey is the thousands of images that have been taken for it since 1968. This column will feature stories about images that are being added to HeRMIS, and the sites they illustrate, so check back for updates. Meanwhile, you can take in an exhibit that features the Heritage Survey photo collection, Photographic Memory, at the Provincial Archives of Alberta until December 2011. (Click on the image below for more information.)

The PAA is located at 8555 Roper Road, in Edmonton. Map  Driving Directions

Email: paa@gov.ab.ca

Phone: (780) 427-1750  Reading Room Phone: (780) 427-1056  (Toll Free: First dial 310-0000, then dial the full ten-digit phone number of the office you wish to reach.)

Please Note: The Heritage Survey exhibit can be viewed during regular open hours, Tuesday through Friday from 9 am to 4:30 pm, and until 9 pm on Wednesdays. It will be up until the end of January. Please note that the Provincial Archives of Alberta will be closed December 26-28, 2011.

Written by: Dorothy Field, Heritage Survey Program Coordinator

New Heritage Conservation Adviser

Greetings stewards of Alberta’s heritage,

I am a new Heritage Conservation Adviser working for the Historic Resources Management Branch at the Ministry of Culture and Community Services.  Having just moved here from New Brunswick, I am looking forward to learning more about Alberta’s distinct heritage and adapting my architectural knowledge to help you conserve it for future generations.

Carlo assessing the foundation of the main barn located on Minister’s Island Provincial Heritage Place, New Brunswick.

Prior to my current position, I was a Project Executive for the Government of New Brunswick’s Heritage Branch.  I provided technical advice on conservation methods based on the Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada. I worked with government owned sites and processed applications for historic designations under the New Brunswick Heritage Conservation Act.  Before working in heritage, I dealt with Building Codes and Capital Maintenance issues as an Architectural Technologist for the Community Colleges and Employment Counselling Offices in New Brunswick, and as an Operations Coordinator for a property management firm in Ontario.  These experiences have enabled me to see both sides of the coin in terms of the challenges faced in maintaining and upgrading our historic resources, while at the same time conserving heritage values for the future.

I hold a Bachelor of Arts and Honours degree in the combined majors of Art History and Architecture from Carleton University, as well as a diploma in Architectural Technology from Algonquin College.  In my job experience I also obtained certifications as a Professional Technologist and as a Qualified Building Code Official.  From a heritage perspective, I also represented New Brunswick in the review of the second edition of the Standards and Guidelines for the Conservation of Historic Places in Canada and provided examples for a Parks Canada study on how the Building Code can affect or is applied to heritage buildings.

Leaving my family, friends and colleagues in New Brunswick and Ontario wasn’t a very easy decision, but I am certain that the new experiences I will have in Alberta will make me glad that I did.

Best regards,

Carlo Laforge

NOTE: Carlo will be responsible for serving the Edmonton Region. Please click here to view a map of Alberta showing the areas serviced by all of the Heritage Conservation Advisers.

All the Presentations: 2011 Municipal Heritage Forum

Recent blog posts featured the presentations shared during the 2011 Municipal Heritage Forum. The complete collection is accessible via the following links:

“Roadmap to Success” – Thank you for a great FORUM! – A brief overview of the two day event.

“The Other Side of the Rockies” – The keynote presentation, which featured case studies from British Columbia.

What information did you miss? – Presentations from the four breakout sessions.

Remembrance Day – A photo essay featuring the venue – the beautiful Prince of Wales Armouries.

“Show and Tell” – A Learning Exchange! – Presentations about municipal heritage projects.

Do you want to be memorable? – A presentation about making your community visitor friendly.

Thank you for your interest and attendance at the 2011 Forum. Planning for the 2012 Municipal Heritage Forum is already underway!

Written by: Brenda Manweiler, Municipal Heritage Services Officer


Do you want to be memorable?

What makes a community memorable? How can a community encourage tourists to return? Shelia Campbell spoke about these issues at the 2011 Municipal Heritage Forum. Promoting a community’s historic resources is one way a community can distinguish itself.

Shelia Campbell, a Tourism Product Development Coordinator with Alberta Tourism, Parks and Recreation, challenged us to think about what makes a trip memorable. Is your community visually appealing? Can visitors find their way easily? Are services offered of good quality? Can visitors find good information about your community? How can historic resources contribute to these goals?

Click here for a copy of the presentation.

For a complete collection of the 2011 Municipal Heritage Forum presentations, please click here.

Written by: Michael Thome, Municipal Heritage Services Officer